HomeArts and Crafts IdeasUltimate Guide to Sewing a French Seam

Hello creative friends!

What is a French seam?

Lets start at the beginning by answering the question what is a French seam?.

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Women’s Bell Sleeve Top

Using this seam eliminates the need to clean finish seam allowance as is typically required with a regular seam.

The way in which french seaming works is by ensuring the first seam is smaller than the second seam.

Otherwise, raw fabric edges will be visible on the right side of the garment.

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For a proper French seam, the second stitch line needs to fully enclose the first seam.

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Take this as an example for sewing patterns requiring a 5/8 seam allowance.

Close up of a french seam stitch on fabric.

Work one seam at a time.

Align WRONG sides of the fabric together.

Using your sewing machine set to a straight stitch, sew the edges together with a 14 seam allowance.

Close up of a french seam stitch on fabric.

At the ironing board, press the seam flat with an iron.

Trim the seam allowance to 1/8 wide.

Press the seam open and press the seam allowance to one side.

French seam stitch on 3 different pieces of fabric.

Turn the seam so that the RIGHT sides of the fabric is facing each other.

Use pins to hold the two layers together.

Turn the piece over and admire your tidy seam!

French seam stitch on 3 different pieces of fabric.

Here are some things to consider when deciding whether or not to use a French seam.

Which Fabrics Work Best with French Seams

Advantages vs.

Consider this points when deciding whether or not to use a French seam.

Diagram showing to fold fabric.

What is a Mock French Seam (also known as faux french seam)?

Similar to a true french seam, it requires a wider seam allowance, such as 5/8.

Align RIGHT sides of fabric together.

Diagram showing to fold fabric.

Press seam allowance open.

Fold and press the raw fabric edges towards the seam.

Stitch the folded edges together with an edgestitch to create a mock French seam.

Two pieces of blue fabric cut into rectangles.

Open seam and press mock french seam to one side.

Looks pretty tidy too, doesnt it?

Other popular ways to clean finish a seam include serging, zig zag stitch or with pinking shears.

Two pieces of blue fabric cut into rectangles.

And if youd like to check out some of our free sewing patterns, visit our project libraryhere.

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As you expand your sewing expertise, think of it as a sewing journey in which practice makes perfect.

Sewing machine sewing a stitch into a piece of blue fabric.

French seaming gives a sewing project that professional finish from the inside out.

Its a different technique that is worth trying and perfecting!

Happy sewing, friends!

Sewing machine sewing a stitch into a piece of blue fabric.

Pin it for later!

Trimming excess blue fabric with scissors.

Trimming excess blue fabric with scissors.

Using an iron to press one side of the sewn fabric.

Using an iron to press one side of the sewn fabric.

Folding the fabric to face each other.

Folding the fabric to face each other.

Pins added to the blue fabric and sewing machine sewing a seam.

Pins added to the blue fabric and sewing machine sewing a seam.

Folding over the fabric to the other side.

Folding over the fabric to the other side.

Opening the fabric to show the seam.

Opening the fabric to show the seam.

Close up of a french seam stitch on fabric.

Close up of a french seam stitch on fabric.

Three black and white striped baskets.

Three black and white striped baskets.

White fabric with a french seam.

White fabric with a french seam.

Adding fabric to the sewing machine.

Adding fabric to the sewing machine.

Pressing the sewn seam down with an iron.

Pressing the sewn seam down with an iron.

Pressing one side of the sewn fabric.

Pressing one side of the sewn fabric.

Turning fabric over.

Turning fabric over.

Stitch the folded edges together with a sewing machine.

Stitch the folded edges together with a sewing machine.

Close up of finished mock french seam stitch.

Close up of finished mock french seam stitch.

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